Birding in Colombia

Ucumarí & Los Nevados

Introduction

Ucumarí Nature Reserve is set between 1800 and 2800 metres above sea level on the west slope of the Central Cordillera and borders the Los Nevados National Park which extends to over 5000 m.a.s.l. The reserve is owned by CARDER based in Pereira and permits can be obtained from them in advance for both the reserve and the National Park. There are five locations: La Suiza (1800m), El Cedral (2000m), La Pastora (2400m), El Bosque (2800-3100m) and Laguna de Otun (4100m). There is accommodation and camping facilities at La Pastora and La Suiza, and camping available within Los Nevados NP.

Getting to the Reserve

To get to La Suiza or La Pastora you will need to take chiva (mountain bus) from Transportes La Florida in Pereira.A taxi will take you here from the main bus terminal. The chiva passes La Suiza on its way up the mountain so if stopping here just jump off. If going to La Pastora you will need to take the chiva to El Cedral (a mule staging post - see photo). This is as far as the chiva will go. La Pastora is another 2-3 hours walk up the mule trail (up to six hours if you're birding). You can hire a mule here to take your gear up to La Pastora though you're better of arranging this beforehand with CARDER. Chivas run from Pereira at 9:00 am and 3:00 p.m. weekdays and 9:00 am, 12:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m. on weekends. Remember: it gets dark at 6:00 p.m. To get you permit ring CARDER on Pereira (63) 359765. If you are in Colombia and have fax facilities; after explaining where you want to go and what services you require. E.g. camping, food etc., you can pay this into there bank account, fax the receipt and they will then fax you the permit. This will save you having to visit them in Pereira.

Birds to look for

La Suiza: There is a short nature trail through the forest. Look out for Andean Cock-of-the-rock, Moustached Puffbird, Emerald Toucanet, Cauca, Sickle-winged and Wattled Guans, Red-ruffed Fruitcrow, Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet, Bar-crested Antshrike, Andean Cock-of-the-rock, Pale-eyed and Glossy-black Thrushes, Greyish Piculet, Multicoloured Tanager (rare) and Moustached Antpitta. Hummingbirds include Greenish Puffleg, Gorgeted Woodstar, Green Violetear, Andean Emerald and Booted Racket-tail.

La Pastora: Shortly after leaving El Cedral look for Red-ruffed Fruitcrow. Listen for their 'booming' call. On the way up the trail flanks the river. Here is the best place to see Torrent Duck; you may have to wait for them to arrive along this stretch. On the way up also look for Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Streaked Tuftedcheek, White-tailed Tyrannulet, Black-chested Buzzard-eagle, Emerald Toucanet and Mountain Elaenia. In the garden around the cabin look for Tourmaline Sunangel, Highland Motmot and Collared Inca. Beyond the campsite at La Pastora there are loads of bushes which are ideal for birding before breakfast. Look out for Rufous-crowned Tody-flycatcher, Slaty Brush-finch, Golden-fronted Whitestart, Green Jay, Sickle-winged Guan and Dusky Piha. The best birding is to be had by continuing up the mule trail towards Peña Bonita and beyond. In the bamboo near Peña Bonita just before reaching the river crossing, look for Masked Saltator. Other species to look for along this trail include Buff-breasted, Lacrimose and Hooded Mountain-tanagers, Grass-green Tanager, Black-collared Jay, Black-billed Mountain-toucan, White-tipped Swift, Black-thighed Puffleg and Andean Guan. In front of the cabin at La Pastora there is a giant Eucalyptus. From about 5:30 p.m. onwards a flock of White-capped Tanagers flies into roost and can be easily seen; they can also be seen in the very early morning when they leave the roost.