San Cipriano

Introduction

San Cipriano is a small village situated at 200 metres above sea level on the Pacific slope of the Andes. The area is important because much of the drinking water for the nearby port of Buenaventura come from here. This means large areas of the river's watershed is protected in order to maintain this water supply. Therefore, the quality of the birding in this area is excellent. The odd thing about San Cipriano is the means by which you get to it. There are no roads and the river that flows too fast and is too shallow in areas to set up river navigation. There is, though, a railway line that runs past the village; this doesn't mean to say there are any trains! There are trains, but only once a week. The locals have therefore set up their own transport system utilising the rail track. They will transport you on what is known as a "Brujita", a wooden pallet with bearings as wheels and men, who'd knock out Mike Tyson in one punch, who push you along with a pole in a manner similar to that of someone punting. This journey is NOT for the faint hearted as speeds are considerable (remember, you are only sat on a palette) and there is only one rail track so allowances have to be made for those coming in the opposite direction! A friend commented after the journey that it was probably the most ludicrous thing he'd ever done.

Getting to San Cipriano

Take any bus from heading for Buenaventura and get off at the entrance to the village of Córdoba. Walk through the village to the railway track and there you'll find the guys waiting to take by Brujita to San Cipriano. The cost is standardised amongst them so no bargains are available, though you might want to ask a few just to make sure they're not trying to rip you off. Birding in San Cipriano Walking through the village the track takes you through excellent forest on one side and the river on the other. You can only walk up this track so far if you don't have a permit; still worth doing. However, you can try and obtain a permit from Aquavalle based in Buenaventura to continue up the track. Accommodation is available if you want it in the village and there are plenty of places to buy food and drinks. You may be able to arrange accommodation at the water station further up by speaking, again, to Aquavalle. Please DO NOT walk up beyond the sign prohibiting the public if you don't have a permit: protecting this area from loggers etc. is difficult enough without further problems. An early start and you could combine this site with Buenaventura, though this is only worth it from October to April when there are migrant waders to look for. Remember to check time of high tide in Buenaventura!

Birds to look for

Anywhere along the track look for Lesser Swallow-tailed and Grey-rumped Swifts, White-thighed Swallow, Tawny-crested and Dusky-faced Tanagers, Black-chested Jay, Spot-crowned Barbet. Listen for Golden-collared Manakin, they sound like a cap gun going off, before trying to locate them. Both Chestnut-mandibled and Choco Toucans can be seen as well as Stripe-billed Araçari. In a palm plantation look for Purple-throated Fruitcrow and Chestnut Oropendola. Woodpeckers include Cinnamon and Crimson-bellied. Also look for Short-tailed Pygmy-tyrant, Purple-crowned Fairy, Half-collared Gnatwren, Blue-black Grosbeak, Masked Tityra, Buff-throated Saltator, White-ringed Flycatcher, White-headed Wren and Rose-faced Parrot. In winter look for Bay-breasted Warbler.

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